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Artworks

Hanging
Ernest Boiceau
Linen, wool, silk and gilt-strip on silk core; weft-float faced reversed twill weave; with areas of uncut pile formed by hooking; signature embroidered in "chain" stitches covered with wrapping yarns of gilt-strip on silk core and wool · 1920
Art Institute of Chicago

Hanging
Maxwell Ashby Armfield
Linen, plain weave; appliqued with linen, plain weaves; embroidered with silk floss in long and short, chain, buttonhole, Cretan variation, scroll, ladder, cross, and detached cross stitches; laid work and couching; French knots; lined with linen, plain weave · 1916
Art Institute of Chicago

Bedcover
Mertie Amalia Postel
Cotton, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; pieced; embroidered with cotton in detached chain and stem stitches; French knots; quilted with cotton · 1910
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel
Ann Macbeth
Linen, plain weave; underdrawing in graphite; painted with pigment; embroidered with silk in detached chain, satin, single satin, and stem stitches; French knots; embellished with pearls · 1906
Art Institute of Chicago

The Bride
Ann Macbeth
Wild silk, plain weave; appliquéd with silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk- and gold-leaf-paper-strip wrapped silk in detached chain, satin and stem stitches; laid work, couching and French knots; and glass beads · 1905
Art Institute of Chicago

Adinkra Wrapper
Asante
6 panels joined of factory-produced cotton, plain weave self-patterned by warp and weft floats;
embroidered with silk floss and viscose rayon threads in chain stitches · 1904
Art Institute of Chicago

Head and Shoulder Cloth (selendang)
Malay
Cotton, plain weave; hand-drawn wax resist dyed (batik tulis); ends embellished with metal chain and ornamental pieces · 1901
Art Institute of Chicago

Trousers (Pantalones)
Maya
Cotton, warp ikat, plain weave; embroidered with cotton and wool in chain and surface satin stitches · 1901
Art Institute of Chicago

Bag
Lebolt and Company
Silk on canvas; petit-point; beaded fringe; metal handle and chain · 1901
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel (Dress or Furnishing Fabric)
Joseph Maria Olbrich
Silk and cotton, warp-faced weft-ribbed plain weave; watered (moiré); appliquée with silk and cotton, warp-faced weft-ribbed plain weave and warp-float faced satin weave; embroidered with silk and cotton, in chain and overcast stitches · 1901
Art Institute of Chicago

Married Woman's Pot or Huipil (Blouse)
Maya
Cotton and silk, plain weave with patterning and brocading wefts; joined with cotton in cretan and cross stitches; appliquéd with cellulose acetate, plain weave; embroidered with silk in chain stitches; metal buttons · 1900
Art Institute of Chicago

Belt (Faja)
Maya
Cotton and wool, plain weave; embroidered with silk in chain and satin stitches; warp fringe · 1900
Art Institute of Chicago

Wrap or Shoulder Cloth (Selimut)
Atoni
Cotton; stripes of warp-faced plain weave; paired warps; plied and twisted extending warp fringe width knotted ends; two panels joined; finished with chain binding stitch at header and footer; four selvage present · 1900
Art Institute of Chicago

Headscarf
Ida Ou Nadif
Wool and linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool, silk, cotton, and linen in chequered chain, double running, herringbone, threaded herringbone, pattern darning, satin, and stem stitches; silk-, cotton- and linen- wrapped cut tassels; top edge: linen and wool, weft twining; warp fringe wrapped with wool and embroidered with silk in compound cross stitches: lower edge: silk, centered weft twining; edged with cotton wrapped cord; silk and cotton wrapped cut tassels · 1900
Art Institute of Chicago

Ogboni Chief's Textile
Iwo Yoruba
Cotton, indigo dyed; sixteen strips of plain weave, joined by hand stitching; embroidered with wool in chain stitches; edged with cotton, buttonhole stitched uncut fringe · 1900
Art Institute of Chicago

'Crazy Quilt'
Lana Almedia Marcellus Jeffery
Silk, plain, twill, and satin weaves; some with supplementary patterning warps, some with supplementary patterning and brocading wefts, some velvet, some with self-patterning; some painted, warp ikat, or engraved roller printed; pieced; appliquéd with cotton and silk, cut solid velvet; stamped; and embroidered with silk in buttonhole, chain, detached chain, cross, double feather, herringbone, satin, single satin, split, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; backed with cotton, plain weave; roller printed · 1896
Art Institute of Chicago

Genealogy Quilt
Catharine L. Clark
Wool, cotton, and silk, twill weaves and plain weave cut solid velvet, some stamped; pieced; embroidered with silk in back, single back, buttonhole, chain, detached chain, feather, double feather, herringbone, satin, single satin, and stem stitches; backed stitch couching; edged with cotton, plain weave; backed with cotton, satin weave; sewn with cotton thread · 1896
Art Institute of Chicago

Tunic (Jibbeh)
Mahdist peoples
Layers of cotton, plain weave; pieced and quilted; appliquéd with wool and wool and cotton plain weaves and wool twill weaves; embroidered with cotton in chain, cross, and a derivative of herringbone stitches; applied plied yarn edging; lined with cotton plain weaves; pieced · 1885
Art Institute of Chicago

Man's Robe
Yoruba
Cotton, strips of warp-resist dyed striped plain weave with supplementary brocading wefts; embroidered with silk in open chain stitches; faced with cotton, warp-faced stripe plain weave and plain weave · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

Shoulder Cloth (?)
Komering
Cotton, bands of plain weave, of plain weave embroidered with cotton in chain, double running, eyelet hole and satin stitches; of plain weave with supplementary patterning and brocading wefts; of single interlocking tapestry weave; of weft twining; of weft resist dyed (weft ikat) plain weave; plied knotted warp fringe · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

Vestment (For a First-degree Taoist Priest)
Han-Chinese
Silk and cotton, plain weaves and silk, plain weave self-patterned by ground weft floats; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in chain, eyelet, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; collar and edge trim: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 and 6:1 satin weaves; lined with ramie, plain weave · 1850
Art Institute of Chicago

"Pumpkin Blossom" Quilt
Mrs. George F. Gale
Cotton, plain weave; appliquéd; embroidered in satin, chain and running stitches; machine stitch quilted; edged · 1848
Art Institute of Chicago

"Pumpkin Blossom" Quilt
Mr.
Cotton, plain weave; appliquéd; embroidered in satin, chain and running stitches; machine stitch quilted; edged · 1848
Art Institute of Chicago

"Pumpkin Blossom" Quilt
Mr.
Cotton, plain weave; appliquéd; embroidered in satin, chain and running stitches; machine stitch quilted; edged · 1848
Art Institute of Chicago