Artworks

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching; sleeve facing: silk, 7:1 satin damask weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, single satin, split, and stem stitches (under drawing in black ink or graphite); edging and cloud collar: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-wrapped silk in satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching; collar: silk, 7:1 satin damask weave; ribbons: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, stripes of 7:1 satin weave and stripes of plain weave with supplementary patterning warps and of silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, stripes of 7:1 satin weave, and stripes of plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; tapes: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, 1:1 oblique interlacing and silk, plain weave with self-patterning main warp floats; trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1875

Manchu

Silk, plain gauze weave; embroidered in back and stem stitches; sleeve facings: silk, plain gauze weave; embroidered in back, knot, overcast, stem, and straight stitches; laid work and couching; ribbon: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps and extended weft loop fringe; sleeves trimmed with silk, plain weave; metal buttons · 1875

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped wild silk and silk, laid work and couching; collar tape, closures, and lining: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; metal button · 1875

Han-Chinese

Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary brocading wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill interlacings; painted details; closures, ties, and lining: silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; metal clasps and knotted button · 1875

Bruce James Talbert

Walnut, ebony, boxwood, thuya, maple, and other woods, gilding, and lacquered brass mounts · 1871

Bruce James Talbert

Walnut, ebony, boxwood, thuya, maple, and other woods, gilding, and lacquered brass mounts · 1871

Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in knot, single satin, satin, split, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbons: silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; trimmed with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; waistband: cotton, plain weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1870

Manchu

Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; trimmed with braid of gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, 2:2 twill oblique interlacing; edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; body lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; sleeves lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave · 1870

Manchu

Silk, 7:1 satin damask weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbon: silk and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; facings: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin and single satin stitches; laid work and couching; corner cut outs edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave under laid with silk, warp-float faced 3:1 twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 3:1, 1:1, 3:1, 1:1... twill weave; metal buttons · 1870

Han-Chinese

Silk, 7:1 satin damask weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; sleeve bands: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped wild silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in eyelet, feather, knot, satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbons: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, complementary warp 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and self-patterning ground wefts; trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 and 4:1 satin weaves; lined with silk, plain weave · 1870

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in knot, single satin, satin, split, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbons: silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; trimmed with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; waistband: cotton, plain weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1870

Kamisaka Sekka

wood with lacquer · 1868

Manchu

Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave; painted (kossu) · 1860

Han-Chinese

Body: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped wild silk in laid work and couching; neck, front, hem, sides and sleeves: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk wrapped cotton in knot, satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; sleeve bands: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching; three ribbons: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave self-patterned by main warp floats (narrowest has gold-leaf-over-lacquered-strip-wrapped silk); lined with silk, plain weave · 1860

Shibata Zeshin

Two-panel folding screen; ink, color, lacquer, and gold on silk · 1850

YAMADA

Gold and colored lacquer with inlaid mother-of-pearl on ro-iro black lacquer; ojime: metal bead inlaid with silver; netsuke: carved ebony inlaid with ivory design of Daruma · 1850

Shibata Zeshin

Two-panel folding screen; ink, color, lacquer, and gold on silk · 1850

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, split, and straight stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave · 1850

Han-Chinese

Silk and cotton, plain weaves and silk, plain weave self-patterned by ground weft floats; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in chain, eyelet, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; collar and edge trim: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 and 6:1 satin weaves; lined with ramie, plain weave · 1850

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weaves self-patterned by areas of plain weave; pieced; medallions with under drawing in black pigment and trimmed with cords of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk couched with silk; neck facing: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; trimmed with braid of silk, 2:2 oblique interlacing and with ribbon of silk and cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and self-patterned by main warp floats; ties: silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1850

John Henry

Lead with golden brown lacquer patination · 1844

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; sleeves: silk, weft-float faced 1:5 and warp-float faced 2:1 twill damask weave; edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, plain weave; metal buttons · 1840

Shibata Zeshin

Lacquered wood, gold and silver hiramaki-e, takamaki-e, and colored togidashimaki-e · 1834

Lukutin Factory

lacquered wood · 1830