Database / Artworks
Artworks

Acanthus
Morris
Cotton, twill weave with supplementary pile wefts forming cut "velveteen"; block printed · 1876
Art Institute of Chicago

Belt (Chumpi or Wak’a)
Quechua
Wool and cotton, two-color complementary warp weave based on a diamond twill weave; braided warp fringe · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

Coca or Ceremonial Cloth (Inkuña)
Quechua
Wool, stripes of plain weave, float weave derived from weft chevron twill weave, and two- and three-color complementary warp weaves · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

Fragment
Charles Francis Annesley Voysey
Cotton, warp-float faced 2:1 twill weave with supplementary pile wefts forming cut solid "velvet"; block printed · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

Ceremonial Skirt
Kuba
Raffia, plain weaves; pieced; appliquéd with plain weaves in pearl stitches; embroidered in pearl stitches; edged with bands of cotton, warp-stripe warp-float faced twill weave; cotton, plain weave; pieced and hemmed in slip and pearl stitches; and cotton, warp-float faced alternating float weave; joined with raffia in pearl and twisted insertion stitches · 1875
Art Institute of Chicago

"Ocean Wave" Quilt Bedcover
Frances Brooks Wyld
Cotton, plain weaves; printed; cotton, twill weaves; pieced; edged and backed with cotton, plain weave; quilted · 1873
Art Institute of Chicago

Woman's Long Shawl
Antony
Wool and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of warp-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of two layers, plain weave and plain weave with seven-color complementary wefts, floats trimmed on reverse; knotted main warp fringe; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment; two selvages present · 1870
Art Institute of Chicago

Woman's Majia (Semiformal or Informal Domestic Vest)
Manchu
Silk, 7:1 satin damask weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbon: silk and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; facings: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin and single satin stitches; laid work and couching; corner cut outs edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave under laid with silk, warp-float faced 3:1 twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 3:1, 1:1, 3:1, 1:1... twill weave; metal buttons · 1870
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel
Mathevon et Bouvard
Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:2 twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning and brocading wefts · 1860
Art Institute of Chicago

Handkerchief
Celestin Nanteuil
Cotton, twill weave; copperplate printed · 1860
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel
Mathevon et Bouvard
Silk and cotton, twill weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut pile-on-pile voided velvet; band of partially uncut pile · 1860
Art Institute of Chicago

Shawl
Antony
Silk and wool, twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in twill interlacings; main warp fringe; woven on a loom with a Jacquard attachment · 1850
Art Institute of Chicago

Hanging
Maison Mathevon et Bouvard, French
woven textiles, hanging — medium: silk technique: lampas; 7&1 satin weave supplemented by a 1s2 twill weave (interlaced connection a 2s1 twill). there are two continuous wefts in each shed of the twill: yellow for the background, and red to create the effect of damask. all other colors are brocaded. · 1850
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Shawl
Anthony Berrus
Silk and wool, twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in twill interlacings; main warp fringe; woven on a loom with a Jacquard attachment · 1850
Art Institute of Chicago

Cover (Needlework)
Susanna Lewis
Cotton, twill weave; embroidered with wool in a variety of stitches · 1850
Art Institute of Chicago

Boy's Baijia Pao ("One Hundred Household" Robe)
Han-Chinese
Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weaves self-patterned by areas of plain weave; pieced; medallions with under drawing in black pigment and trimmed with cords of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk couched with silk; neck facing: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; trimmed with braid of silk, 2:2 oblique interlacing and with ribbon of silk and cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and self-patterned by main warp floats; ties: silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1850
Art Institute of Chicago

Long Shawl
Antony
Wool and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 twill interlacings; main warp fringe;woven on loom with Jacquard attachment · 1848
Art Institute of Chicago

Long Shawl
Anthony Berrus
Wool and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 twill interlacings; main warp fringe;woven on loom with Jacquard attachment · 1848
Art Institute of Chicago

Bedcover
Rebecca C. Hayward
Wool, broken twill weave; fulled; embroidered with wool and silk in back, individual back, looped back (cut to form pile), chain, feather, fly, long-armed cross, satin, individual satin, and stem stitches; lined with cotton, plain weave; roller and possibly block printed; glazed · 1844
Art Institute of Chicago

Empress' Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; sleeves: silk, weft-float faced 1:5 and warp-float faced 2:1 twill damask weave; edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, plain weave; metal buttons · 1840
Art Institute of Chicago

"Lone Star" Variation Quilt
Ruth Hart
Silk, stripes of warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave, warp-float faced 7:1 warp chevron twill weave and plain weave; pieced; stars: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 and 4:1 satin and plain weaves; some self-patterned by complementary ground wefts or by warp and weft floats; some in stripe of both weaves with supplementary patterning warps; some with impressed patterning; some warp ikat dyed; some printed; and silk and cotton, plain weave self-patterned by weft floats; pieced; quilted with silk threads; edged with ribbon of silk, stripes of warp-float facd 4:1 satin weave and plain weave with extended weft loops; backing: cotton, plain weave; glazed; batting: cotton · 1835
Art Institute of Chicago

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago

Cover
Laura Dollaff Dresser
Wool, twill weave; fulled; appliquéd with linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool in running stitches cut to form pile · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago